Riga, Latvia, March 8, 2006
In Tallinn, then nothing happened apart from the various business meetings and about 300 photos of the city, made with frozen hands, which were saved only because the battery is discharged due to the cold and forced me to quit. I've never eaten in a restaurant because I was available to the kitchen and so I Take advantage to improve my culinary art with brown bread and smoked salmon washed down with hot tea. At breakfast cereals indulged in milk and yogurt and noon to smoked salmon on white bread. Several times I went to the supermarket to stock doorstep and to study the habits and customs. Interestingly, those nostalgic for the Soviets, when they see you throw a queue and bring you to wait, like the good old days when life was a daily struggle as it is today.
The first day I try but I only see the milk cartons that says something like "Simu", I turn around and ask a girl in Tallinn Estonia:
- "Excuse me. MILC is dis? "
He looks at me and says,
- "Yes." Smile. Two seconds of silence, then said:
- "Chen to elp iu more?" (I can help you with something else?).
- "Yes, of oll in the market" (Yes, in any supermarket).
Ride, I go.
Here, if I SINGLE I boarded the Estonian Tallinn.
Ah, this is beautiful. I just went to buy a bus ticket to Riga and I see a market. I decide to take two shots, the markets are always beautiful to photograph. Within, I walk among the tables of old Soviet selling fruit, vegetables, bread and all these things the people, pull out the Mavica and click "click." Then click again "re-click." Then the screen I see a guy with the mustache from konduktor Pole who looks at me and says:
- "NIETO".
It 'a NIETO, not nyet, or Nyet, Just a NIETO, indeed should be written in bold.
Down with the machine and see it live. The look and say:
- "As niet?
- "Nyet, nyet Music Rineke fotograficzky Ssrws ddd .."
Not knowing what to answer, make a gesture on "but it goes to the sea en de mona" and a second ransom photo.
He raises his hand and covers the lens. I stop. I reflect. I look at him. Ok, I go. He remains standing there the whole burden of his nyet.
After 50 meters I see an old whore who sells cabbage from a jar immense. Ea too good.
I pull out and shoot the darn thing. Then, because I do not know about. And 'behind me watching me! In his eyes I do not read or violence or threat, just an "I'm here, and look at you, you know you're wrong, but you persist in sin."
I am appalled, I'm not sure what to think, and say:
- "Public". He understands what I mean "public place is what it's like in God's name I can not take pictures?". He says
- "From, public, pazaltwo, surkij busbova parakol" and indicates to the other side. I understand he wants to say "yes, and there is a sign indicating that you can not take pictures."
I would ask him who he is, if it comes from another era, if it is realized that the wall is fallen and that if that sign is there really only because no one has bothered to remove it etc. etc. etc. ...
but then I decided that I would not be able to express my concepts of freedom for all and with a dramatically Chapter:
- "To be, ok ok" and I'm leaving. The wind was knocked from the farts of the future is the past.
Last gem. Bus and are close to me there's a guy who talks a lot on a cell phone, and Italian. As is always on the phone did not speak. Then I hear you speak Polish well. Then he starts to speak Russian and can not resist:
- "But oh, how many languages do you speak?"
It follows a chat with fellow esteuropofili and it turns out right in Vilnius, long ago, he met a guy doing a job similar to mine. Tell me the name. And 'my brother.
Final jinx: a friend of mine who lives in Riga in Riga was in London until today, this evening took the plane, had until six o'clock, I arrive at five in the apartment. Missed meetings.
Now is in Riga, in another apartment, with (hopefully tomorrow) wireless and cable TV. I finish the report and shoot myself "Perfume," the book.
















